Friday, March 28, 2014

lighthouses and making tortillas


Mother demanded a disclaimer: "I really enjoyed your latest blog although I would respectfully request a disclaimer at the bottom explaining that your lack of experience was not my fault - I taught you many domestic skills and your brother can cook. I would just like to internationally clear my name." Well, Mother, I put it at the top. 

first, a song.
this song reminds me of everything i especially love. the great lakes, holland, traverse city, leland, everything in between. i have a special thing for lighthouses. they remind me of how faithful he is. ever-present and ever-mindful during storms raging here. look for the light of his word. he is there, still. i like looking for him and seeing him. a beacon. a constant in my chaotic, always changing environment full of stresses, worries, and a whirring mind. he cuts through the darkness and the night. look for him and listen to this song.

second, a story. last week, i went to cheonan to have dinner with some friends. i was under the impression that we were going out and playing board games after. instead, i was ambushed with making dinner in a small little apartment full of helping hands and friends who also felt uncomfortable and out of place in a kitchen (at least that's what they told me). there were three of us and the master. turns out master r went to culinary school, which was why he actually knew what he was doing and made us do it instead. it was a learning experience. in both making tortillas and patience. it stretched me and rolled me and squished me in places, not being told exactly what to do and how to do it. things were left up to me that should never be left to me; how much flour to add to make the dough less sticky, when to stop mixing, size of dough balls, rolling method, things i've never done. this event instilled in me enough confidence and courage to make a second tortilla-making attempt: yesterday. it was the first dinner club in my little sinchang apartment complex and the theme just happened to be mexican. convenient. i thought it was too coincidental to pass up so i offered to take a second whack at making tortillas. (why i ever offered to make tortillas alone for the first time for public criticism is still beyond me).

it was one of the most stressful things i've ever encountered, and i've experienced quite a bit in college and in solo. i had to go to the store and find flour. ended up with wheat flour, but flour is flour (in my book, can i live by this?) 5:30pm. began mixing my ingredients. all of them. until i read the directions which said to.. not. i'm not sure how to mix and add oil and water at the same time, so maybe it's a good thing that didn't actually happen. mixing was an adventure in itself because i didn't have a 'bread hook' whatever that is and the dough seemed to really like the mixer and kept sticking and balling up the wands, whisks, metal things. i ended up hand-mixing the dough until it seemed smooth enough (in jackie kitchen terms). the only place in my entire apartment big enough for rolling the dough was my desk at the opposite side of the room. i cleaned it and floured it and i then divided the dough into 16 perfectly equal dough balls (because it was scientific) and smooshed them just a bit (okay, there were 17) and let them 'rest' for fifteen minutes. they hadn't done anything yet, why did they need a rest? after they had finished their siesta (and during) i attempted to turn the gas stove on for the first time. ever. it took me the entire resting period to get the flame to stick around. did i mention cat was on the porch yelling at me the whole time because he wanted in on the pyro action? (as if lighting his tail on fire from my candle a few weeks ago wasn't enough). the pan got hot, real hot. as expected, that was good. because i was at my desk, space was limited and i could only realistically roll out two tortillas at a time (sometimes three if i was lucky). because of this and the flames in the other room, i had to roll out tortillas then run them to the stove over and over and over again. roll, run, flip, run for another. 5.5 times. it was a workout. i ended up frying? cooking? the tortillas twice because i couldn't tell if they looked right. they looked better after the second round. i finished making them at 7:30pm and was supposed to be at the dinner at 7:30. i didn't have time to clean off my flour-y desk, i raced them to the building next door and almost dropped them because they were still so hot. precious cargo.

i was nervous when people started getting excited that someone made homemade tortillas.. i didn't want them to have expectations of any kind. but they loved them. they ate all of them. they raved. at least, that's how i remember it because i was so shocked. i was convinced, sure, that something had gone wrong and hadn't turned out right. but i did it. i made tortillas. by myself. in my apartment. alone with cat and open flame. and they ate all of them. it's weird making something for hours and having nothing to show for it. but i will remember that night and the people and the delicious mexican food that i ate and ate and overate because i didn't know when i would see mexican food next. and i'll remember the absolute disaster of an apartment and mess that i came home to and left until today.

thanks, lord, for being my lighthouse and for keeping me on my toes with friends who expect a lot out of life and out of me. thanks for throwing tortillas in my path and making me learn to trust myself and my ability in the kitchen (what little skill i have now). aiming to have a trust like abraham and sarah. next week, dinner club is doing curry. too bad the people of india don't eat tortillas (that i know of).

do i try to make naan?
now that's a scary thought.




Monday, March 24, 2014

Cary Grant March

School has officially been underway a few weeks now. The weeks have been busy and long, but I've enjoyed it all. Meeting the new students, reinvesting in the old, being greeted in the hallways, and having a community of English teachers at my school.

The last few weeks have been full of devotions and sermons on practicing an attitude and spirit of gratitude. To be grateful for everything and in everything. I've also learned a lot about trusting God and giving everything to him, so that I am on solid footing alongside Him. He will help me. He will be with me always. I am actively trying to be grateful for everything He gives me. Especially the people he has given me here, the people I can share verses with, my struggles with, and the little blessings I find daily.

Isaiah 41:13 
For I am the Lord your God
    who takes hold of your right hand
and says to you, Do not fear;
    I will help you.


Through conversations across the miles, M and I have been digging deeper into our daily and weekly God moments. Small things where we see God: like the stars at night, happy students, making tortillas.  Cities like Chicago and Seoul, walks through fields to the subway, finding lakes that are exactly 5k around and perfect for running, beautiful bridges, board game nights, kimbap, anticipating yoga outside, finally not wearing a coat in school, morning iced lattes, catching the early bus and being able to see the sunrise and enjoy it. It's funny how we can be in the same place in two completely different worlds and on completely different schedules. Those moments where we overlap are a blessing.

I have so many happy memories from the last few weeks: teaching my co-teachers how to play Cranium and trying to act out the Berlin wall, having all the Koreans I know make March Madness brackets (and taking hours to explain it and look at all the mascots), learning how to make tortillas and playing board games afterwards with people who aren't afraid to look ridiculous, going to Seoul for St. Paddy's day and having Koreans jig and remembering marathon River dance viewings with brother M, spending Sundays in Cheonan; at church, outside, drinking lattes, watching basketball, playing cards. Days at school where we do puzzles and sew and knit and maybe one day quilt and just hope that the principal doesn't walk in while we're doing it. And hermit days where I get home from school and I read books and drink tea and cuddle with (or get attacked by) Nimbus, or days I binge-watch documentaries I've downloaded, or days I clean and clean and the cat follows me around knocking things down again. I relish these days.

This is the perfect time and weather for walking. J and I have been walking more on our way to and from school. Intentionally getting off the bus earlier in order to walk further. I like it. I like the time we spend outside. I like anticipating: spring, warmer weather, blooms, hikes, weekends south, the beach. But I also like seeing that life has gone on at home without me: people have gone, birthdays have been celebrated, Oberon day was yesterday, graduation is approaching for some, spring breaks, the future, grad schools, things are happening and I like seeing that. At first it was really lonely, and I wished I was there, experiencing it all again. But now I'm grateful to see my friends go through it, and learn from it, and enjoy it as much as I did. And I'm grateful that I'm changing and learning and growing too.

And I can still enjoy March Madness and watch the games live in another time zone, country, continent, language, place. March Madness is almost the same. And God is the same, here and there. For my friends and for me. He is the same and He is there and He is here.

Also, it's Cary Grant March here in Korea on my man-candy calendar. And I'm grateful for that. 

Also also, I've had this song on repeat: 
My Dear, by Bethel Worship
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5ftKclNtUo




Sunday, March 9, 2014

birthdays abroad

I honestly wasn't expecting much out of this birthday, it being my first birthday away from friends and family who celebrate my birth month with me. But I felt so, so loved by everyone there and here. More loved than I've ever felt at home because the love I felt crossed so much ground. It traveled far, and gained momentum. It was a great, great love you all shared with me. 

Before my birth week - received a large package from home full of popcorn, gifts for Nim, and little gifts for me to unwrap. The Michigan coffee caramel popcorn was my favoriteeee. Thanks, Mom! (Nim loves his gifts, too). 

The night before - went over to S and T's to celebrate my youth with cider and a puzzle. 

The day of - began an iced latte, and with cake and party hats with my co-teachers. They sang Happy Birthday to me in both English and Korean. It got even better when we didn't have classes because it was the first day of school (lucky us!). After school, Julie and I went to my first cat cafe and drank mango smoothies and played with kittens. Then I went home and for dinner, went over to S and T's where they were making me dinner. I walked into a trap. Seven people were there to surprise me! They played kazoos, and sang, and we ate dinner, and had chips and salsa, and ended with wine and brownies. (I was actually kind of scared when the kazoos started blaring from the back bedroom). I had no idea. You all did so well and I didn't suspect a thing. I got socks, wine glasses, and flowers - and I was a very, very happy girl. Thank you - co-t's, Julie, Staci, Tyson, Landi, Briggitta, Will, Amanda, and those too numerous to name, for making me feel so special. 

Amidst all of this - the messages I received were incredible. Through texts, Instagram shout outs, Facebook, emails, and cards, I was so moved by your thoughts and outpouring of love from all over the globe. I was so overwhelmed and grateful, and I still thank God for everything I felt that day. It was the best first birthday abroad I could have asked for. I am so, so lucky. 


My cup overflows.



Monday, March 3, 2014

quite possibly the longest blog post ever

December 28 - March 3. Michigan, Madrid, Morocco, Korea, the Philippines, and back again.

So... I could blame the lack of blogging on a lot of things: my computer breaking on me, traveling a bit (okay, a lot), being on vacation, sunshine, blue sky, stars, and getting distracted by the multiple polar vortices in Michigan...

Today, on my birthday, I'm catching up. We don't have classes at school because it's the first day of the semester (happy birthday to me!) and I forgot to bring my book... and this will probably take hours anyways, I've got a whole two months to cover. 

"If you aren't in over your head, how do you know how tall you are?" T.S. Eliot




December 28 - Took the 5:30am bus from Cheonan to Gimpo airport for my first flight to Beijing. The airport is Beijing is HORRENDOUS; so confusing, so confusing, so confusing. I'm confused even thinking about it. Also, there isn't any internet and I was stuck in a warehouse for hours. (Funny story: I sent my parents an email saying my flight was delayed on what "wifi" I could find at the Starbucks, and they got the email the day before I was leaving home for Madrid...9 days later). The flight to Chicago on the Chinese airline was interesting: watched Gone with the Wind, Charade, and Planet Earth. I saw the Great Wall from the airplane and it's even great from however many thousands of feet I was in the air. But what's even greater was seeing Lake Mich from the airplane. Oh, what a sight. My beloved lake. Family met me after I sped through immigration and customs. The strangest thing: I understood what people were saying! English! I hadn't realized just how much I missed it. First stops in Michigan: Panera for some broccoli cheddar soup in a bread bowl and OF COURSE Biggby (Beanz, duh). So good, so latte.

December 29 - Burkholder family Christmas. Woke up at noon and partied all day with the fam. So, so good to see everyone together. Holidays away from home are hard, realizing just how hard.

December 30 - Spent hours upon hours in Beans catching up with Bri, Becca, and Erin. Actual hours (I think five?). Some came, some went, some overlapped, and some didn't - but I was there for the duration, full to the brim of coffee and of friends.

December 31 - Eddie Bauer. New Years Eve. Qdoba. Fargo. Bad decisions? Good decisions? Qdoba good, Fargo BAD.

January 1 - Saw beloved Erk. Met at 24-hour Beans and caught up on everything under the sun. AND I get to be her co-maid of honor for the wedding!!!!!!! I AM SO EXCITED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Then watched Michigan State win the Rose Bowl and ate homemade egg rolls. Duh.

January 2 - Hair cut. Sansu. Loads of sushi. Watched Hobbit in 3D with the Walko's.

January 3 - Coffee at Sparrows. Lunch with mah guhls at Marie Catrib's in GR. Drove back across the state and had dinner with Hanner. Full day. Happy, good, filling. We met at married Morgan's house and hugged and reunited and laughed and I tried not to cry. We talked about Caboose, Van Drez, Stein night, birthdays, lake days, TC, road trips, lattes, hair cuts. Life. Things we'd missed, things that overlapped, things that have changed in the last few months, and things we wish we could go back to.

January 4 - Saw Sophie and got lunch. Logan family Christmas. 

January 5 - Beginning of the blizzard of 2014. Mel came over, and the three of us (Marshall, too) went and played in the snow. We tumbled down hills and made snow chairs in the marsh and made snow angels in the side yard and documented the snowfall with gopros and bird bathes.


January 6 - (-)30 windchill. Dad wouldn't let us out of the house. People went by on snow mobiles and cross country skis.  It would've been nice to have my snowshoes.

January 8 - Drove up north for the day. I needed to see my lake, and Mary, and Leah. I needed to sit in the Brew for an hour with Leah, talking about the most random things, drinking the most random lattes, wearing the most random sweaters. I needed to drive down M22 and go down Gill's Pier and walk down the 84 steps to see my frozen lake. Mom and I trudged across the snow and the ice and just looked. Looked up the beach, looked down the beach, looked out at the lake, the frozen tundra. Took in all of God's frozen glory. It was worth the 8 hour drive for those precious few hours in Leelanau. That night, Erin came over and helped me pack and sent me on my way armed with MI coffee (Lake Michigan morning blend) and a travel journal.


January 9 - Mom and Aunt Char took me to Beans and then we ventured back to Chicago to catch my evening flight to Dusseldorf, then on to Madrid.

January 10 - Spent the entire day in the Dusseldorf airport wandering around and drinking lattes and sleeping on benches. Got to Madrid at 7:30 that night (another terrible airport, avoid this even more desperately than Beijing). Alyssa met me outside immigration and we began another adventure: taking the metro to our apartment with my monster suitcase (whose wheels had broken at this point). After wandering around La Latina aimlessly and trying to speak to our host in Spanish over the phone, we convinced a kind stranger to talk to her and got us pointed in right direction (shout out to the kind stranger and for asking for directions). We put our things down and immediately turned around and went out for sangria and potato pancake (things) that were massive and we ordered two (the leftovers lasted us at least four meals).


January 11 - Today was a wandering day (as was the entire weekend). We walked from square to plaza to street armed only with a map and what little Spanish we knew. It was exciting and we got lost, but eventually we found our way back. We met Sasha and Dina at la Reina Sofia and walked through the art museum and saw Picasso's Guernica. Ended the day with a siesta for energy and a brownie for dinner.


January 12 - Coffee shop hopping day. You get to know a city pretty well by its cafes and coffee shops. We managed to hit four or five in 24 hours. Sasha and Dina joined us at the rooftop coffee shop and left us at the three-story bookstore coffee shop. I was very caffeinated and content after that day. Tapas for dinner that night.


January 13 - We brunched at Gorila, our last coffee shop and meandered our way (lugging suitcase with broken wheels) back to the subway and back to the airport and back through security. And began the journey to Casablanca, Morocco. We landed after dark so my first experience of Morocco was of a rapping taxi driver.


January 14 - We began the morning with breakfast and Starbucks by the Atlantic and spent the rest of the day relaxing in the sun and wandering the corniche.


January 15 - Spent the day on the roof and went to happy hour at Rick's American Cafe (fashioned after the movie and it plays all the time). Then we went to a fortress nearby for dinner where I had my first vegetable tajine.


January 16 - Pastilla for dinner. Sweet. Cinnamon and chicken pastry. 

January 17 - Spent the Friday at the American Academy with Alyssa and her darling little first graders (who are also punks). It was a great day experiencing what her life was like every day at school. They attacked me with questions about where I lived and where I've been and how old I was and if I had pets or siblings or a house and they ended the day saying they loved me ;)

January 18 - Took the train an hour north to Rabat for the day. Spent a few hours getting lost and found again in the medina, bartering for a purse, coming out on the opposite side of the city and having to walk along the water all the way back, getting a cappuccino on the coast, and boat watching.


January 20 - Took my bright new tennis shoes for a run to the Atlantic.

January 21 - Took the three-hour train (by myself!) down? over? to Marrakech and spent the night in a hotel. First time I've been in a hotel alone. Weird. Lonely. I read my book twice. I couldn't figure out how to turn the tele on. Luckily, it was a good book (Looking for Alaska by John Green, I recommend it, twice).

January 22 - Woke up bright and early, packed up, and was picked up by my guide, Brahim, and a couple from New Mexico and we started our long drive to the desert. The first day we crossed the Atlas Mountains (breathtaking and terrifying). I thought Korean drivers were scary, until I went to Morocco. I'm lucky I made it out of those mountains alive. The cliffs dropped off on either side and lines don't mean much to semi-trucks. But still, I was in awe of the majesty of those mountains. We went to a kasbah where the Gladiator was filmed, and were guided through the winding streets up to the top of the hill (also a World Heritage site). We spent the night in the Dades gorge (night #2 in hotel alone.. started book for a third time). 8 hours of driving. (Note: Dades gorge has great rock climbing!). 


January 23 - Woke up early, again. Drove for hours, again. Arrived in Merzouga where we ate a late lunch with Brahim's family (Berber pizza!) and then went to meet our camels, mine was Jimi Hendrix and he was not happy. The camel ride into the desert was two hours to our Berber camp where we met with three other travelers (from Chile, the Netherlands, and Georgia). They were great and good company to spend the evening with. Ended the night with fruit and a drum show. It rained in the Sahara that evening. 6 hours driving, 2 hours camel-back. (Also, pee'd behind a Saharan sand dune, and proud of it. Sorry, Mom). 


January 24 - 3:44am. The moment that sticks out most from the past few months. The stars were so bright, they woke me up. The stars were so beautiful, I was in awe. The stars were so dazzling, I kept spinning in circles. I can't stop thinking about those stars. I saw Mars, and Jupiter, and constellations, and the earth actually seemed round that night because the stars were that grand. Then we woke back up at 6:30am and got back on the camels for the return journey (and to see the sunrise). Then proceeded to drive back across the Atlas Mountains to Marrakech. 2 hours camel-back, 8 hours driving. Met the others back in Marrakech and found our riad in the medina (with a little help from our host).


January 25 - Breakfast on the rooftop, seeing the city, the Berber museum and gardens, Ben Youssef medersa, dinner on a different rooftop, hot tub.


January 26 - Alyssa ran the Marrakech half marathon, and we walked and trudged and trekked to the train station (too much traffic for a taxi to get us there, and too many bags to realistically walk).

January 31 - Journey to the airport. Went to school with Alyssa that morning. The drivers took me to the train station in Casablanca where I was supposed to catch a 30-min train to the airport. Apparently, there were no trains that day and I didn't have enough cash for a taxi. I walked around until I found a bank that could exchange money so I had enough for the taxi, which then took me to the airport. At the airport, I checked in and almost made it through immigration until they told me my second carry-on was too big and had to be checked (but it wasn't before?). 8 hour flight to Dubai. Layover in Dubai (awesome airport). Another 8 hour flight to Seoul. Got bumped up to business class so I had my own little cubbie and three-course meals and noise-cancelling headphones. So I slept most of that flight, making the most of it.

February 1 - Landed in Seoul that afternoon and caught a bus and a taxi back to Sinchang. What a relief to be back where I know what I'm doing and can get myself around. It was also good to see the cat and sleep in my bed and sleep in late and rest and get iced lattes and feel comfortable again.

February 4 - 7 - Sort of taught for a few days, kind of. Not really. But I started each and every day with an iced latte and discovered that "Let it go" from Frozen had taken over the whole of Korea and our elementary school. 

February 8, 9 - Took the train up to Seoul and spent the night on another bench in another airport (this time, Incheon). Flight for Manila left early the next morning and we made it to Puerto Princesa that night. Our bed and breakfast picked us up from the airport and took us "near the forest" to our lodging in the middle of nowhere. I slept hard.

February 10 - First day. Pristine beach. Our own little hut. Crabs in the sand. Tide coming in. Mango smoothies. Making a new Russian friend named Liza. Downpour.


February 11 - Day trip, island hopping around Honda Bay. We went to three different islands: on the first we went snorkeling and had lunch, the second we went swimming, and the third we drank more mango smoothies with our new Australian friends. That night we went to a tiki bar with them.


February 12 - Took a tricycle with our driver, Alan, and went to the crocodile farm and the butterfly garden. At the crocodile farm, we saw hatchlings and big monsters. We walked through a little forest that had some Palawan birds and bearcats (the porcupine was missing). The butterfly garden was beautiful, but it was raining so there weren't very many butterflies in sight. They had a string of pupae that released butterflies each morning, and millipedes, and scorpions, and other creepy beetles that reminded me too much of invertebrate zoology. We spent the evening eating ice cream and pizza.


February 13 - We went to Sabang to see the Underground River, another World Heritage site and a natural world wonder. We took a ferry, then a paddle boat, then a ferry and avoided monkeys the entire time. Then this is what was supposed to happen: catch 4:30 bus to El Nido from Sabang. What actually happened: due to mis-communication we weren't on the manifest and so we had to take the 2pm bus to the crossroads, wait three hours, catch another bus to El Nido squashed in with 18 other foreigners. But we met a Canadian, a few Swiss, and a few Brits. We made the most of it and it worked out and we made it to El Nido and our hotel, eventually. 6 hour mini-van ride.


February 14 - I didn't have a valentine. Instead, we woke up and went island hopping and snorkeling. It was a group of four, us and two Brits. The weather started off nicely, but it didn't last. BBQ on an island, sitting on a beach towel, looking out at the boats. I tried squid rings and ate pineapple slices. We saw big lagoons and snorkeled through small lagoons. They thought we might see reef sharks, but instead I saw blue starfish. And then it began to rain, and we abandoned snorkeling to go to our last island where we had drinks and watched the storm roll in. That night, we caught another mini-van and headed 6 hours back the other direction. In the front seat of a mini-van. At dark. I thought I was going to die. But of course, I didn't (it was iffy for a while). There was also one point where the van stopped to let some passengers off towards the end of the trip and the tricycle drivers started pressing their faces against the glass, trying to get us to take their trike and instead discouraging us quite effectively. 


February 15 - I was flying out this day. There was a Filipino couple from Manila staying at our B&B and they befriended us and took us to the market in Puerto Princesa and ate lunch with us by the seaside. They told us about Manila, where she was a flight attendant and he was a lawyer. They were kind and they were welcoming and they offered their house the next time we want to visit. They even took me to the airport that evening and helped me check in. They flew off, and I flew off soon after. I sat in the Manila airport at a coffee shop for hours, trying to journal about everything I'd experienced and seen and done, and the people I'd met and most importantly, the kindness of strangers. Kindness is free.  

February 16 - I arrived in Seoul early. Ate breakfast and drank coffee, read a book for a while. Eventually, I caught the bus back but the morning was moseyed (mosied?) and relaxed, and again I was comfortable. 
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Adventures are raw, gritty, and altogether sort of unsavory, but I'm developing quite a taste and addiction for these delicious moments (kind of like how my relationship with kimchi began). The sides, end, and beginning of adventures always seem rosy and romanticized, but the act of adventure reminds me of putting socks on backwards. So uncomfortable that you might never get used to it, but you're too lazy and your toes seem to be just outside your reach.  Is it worth the effort to fix your socks? Change them even? Maybe, maybe not. Will you get used to the feeling of not really having a heel? Probably not, but you might actually be enjoying the socks that aren't just right, being so far out of your comfort zone that you've completely lost sight of it. So adventure seems like uncomfortable socks, itchy even. They invite patience and perseverance and even more patience to the table. Eventually it will be over and you'll change or take off the socks, and you'll get back to where you're comfortable, where things seem normal and not much surprises you here (except on the odd occasion). And so after taking off the itchy, maybe wool, socks (that I love) or getting back to your bed after the adventure (that I also love) it always feels good to shed layers. To realize that those socks are never going to be put back on, or those socks are a size too small, or those socks that you're never going to get on the right way are being tossed (toe socks, gross), and you'll see that those adventures made you realize that not everything is going to fit well or feel right or be permanent. But for now, it'll do and maybe you'll look back on those adventures and be thankful for those uncomfortable and itchy experiences because without them you'll never realize that you're capable of tolerating the not-so-perfect situations and it's those times you look back and learn to love. Maybe not right then, but later (once the itchiness (and worst case: rash) has gone away).  

But, maybe you don't even have a tendency to put socks on backwards like I do.


The most important thing, out of everything I've learned, is that kindness is always, always, always free.






Happy March, everyone.